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Scents and Sensibility: The History of Perfume

Scents and Sensibility: The History of Perfume

In 2024, fragrance became the fastest-growing beauty category in both mass and prestige, according to market research firm Circana. Scents offer a gateway into the development of modern society, and from spiritual guidance to opulent displays of wealth, the use of perfume has changed dramatically over the years. Ahead of the ASMALLWORLD Perfumes & Bubbles event on May 14, our editors have delved into the history behind these delightful aromas.

Then: scented offerings and rituals

The origins of perfume date back to over 5,000 years ago, when Egyptian priests were thought to use fragrant resins and incense to mask the smell of sacrificial offerings and enhance spiritual rituals. To meet their ‘olfactory needs’, pharaohs and priests were encased and buried with these scents – which still had an aroma when the tombs were opened in 1897.

Traditional blends included herbal infusions of myrrh, jasmine, frankincense, honey, Nile lotus or Madonna lilies, alongside animal products such as snakeskin. These were crushed and used in places of worship and aromatherapy sites, allowing people to feel aligned in their body, mind and soul. As legend has it, Cleopatra reportedly demanded that the sails of her boat be coated with fragrant oils so that her long-distance lover, Mark Antony, would anticipate her arrival. 

WALL RELIEFS DISPLAYING SPIRITUAL OFFERINGS IN ANCIENT EGYPT

While perfume itself was not created by the Ancient Romans, it is here that the name originated. “Per fumum” translates as “through smoke”, alluding to the mysterious air associated with the scents. Perfume gradually became a core element of the upper classes and was used in public spaces such as baths and temples, alongside private homes and rituals.

With the fall of the Roman Empire, perfume was demoted to being a masker of sickness and stench, while further afield in Asia it continued to grow in popularity. India adopted a full-body scent pattern for spiritual harmony, using different notes across the body, while in China scented inks were used. Following the Crusades in the 11th century, perfume returned to the forefront of European society, and later, explorers such as Columbus and Magellan brought back scented treasures from their travels. Perfumeries selling wearable scented sachets and moulded clay bottles began to pop up in cosmopolitan cities and perfume became a symbol of opulence and high-end glamour.

Now: perfume as a fashion statement

With the 1920s came the fashion trailblazer Coco Chanel, who created the iconic scent Chanel No. 5. By this point, Italy and France had become the epicentre of perfume making and this legendary scent was created by the Grasse-based Ernest Beaux. Other fashion houses such as Christian Dior, Balenciaga, Nina Ricci and Balmain began creating their own signature scents, many of which have continued using the same blends that they first created. Perfume, while still a luxury, is now associated with individualism, freedom of expression, and new methods of self-presentation.

THE FRENCH CLASSIC: CHANEL NO. 5

Next: Perfumes & Bubbles in Zurich

To continue the celebration of scent - not only through history, but through personal experience - ASMALLWORLD Members are invited to Perfumes & Bubbles, an exclusive workshop hosted in Zurich on May 14. Held in the elegant library of five-star hotel Alden Splügenschloss, the workshop will offer a deep dive into the captivating world of perfumery.

Led by Nico Mannino, founder of the Swiss perfume house Pernoire, and hosted by ASMALLWORLD Ambassador Daniella Simmig, the session will unravel the intricacies that set niche perfumes apart from their mainstream counterparts. Guests will explore the composition of scents, from fleeting top notes to deep, lingering base notes, while also learning about the many factors that influence longevity and persistence. The discussion will span the diverse world of fragrance families and offer insight into the creative process of a perfumer - from first inspiration to finished bottle. Along the way, Mannino will share the inspiring story behind Pernoire, shedding light on the personal vision and artistry behind each creation.

This exclusive event offers a deeper appreciation for perfume, paired with sparkling conversation and the rare chance to learn directly from a master of the craft - all in an intimate, beautifully curated setting. For more details and to reserve your place, visit the Event page.

PERNOIRE TEAM

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